Sep
01

Reminiscing on Zucchini, The Taste of Summer, and my Grandfather

Food is such a mnemonic device for me. Certain smells and tastes bring me back to different parts of my life. I wrote a little a while back about how “Sunday Sauce” immediately took me back to my grandparents’ house for dinner after church. The smell of fried seafood immediately triggers memories of post-college summers spend drinking cold beer in one of the many sea side bars on Long Island. Sausage and peppers remind me of an unfortunate 4 days when I worked as a “grill man” at an Italian feast.  I couldn’t wash the smell off of me for days and I am amazed that the dish wasn’t ruined for me after that.

One of the most powerful tastes in terms of triggering memories is a specific combination of ingredients. If you take each one on it’s own, it’s nothing special, but once you combine zucchini, eggs, basil, and some parmigiano cheese my head immediately turns to thoughts of summer… and my paternal grandfather.

There are many smells that remind me of my “Grandpa Pete”; cigars (more specifically the smell of stale cigars in his car), bacon being cooked over and open fire, yoo-hoo, jelly donuts… but his summertime frittata is the most powerful. This dish was always something that was made ahead of time and brought to outings. When we went to the beach, out on a fishing boat, or to our family picnic (where he would show up at an ungodly hour to reserve the spot, and then cook the aforementioned bacon over an open fire so breakfast was ready when we arrived), he seemed to always have a stash of this frittata hidden away in a cooler.

This is the time of year that the onslaught of zucchini comes. It’s everywhere. We got a bunch last week from our CSA. I don’t mind at all. In addition to grilling it, putting it in pasta, or shaving it thin to make a salad, I always pay a bit of tribute to “Grandpa Pete” and make the frittata that reminds me of him. In fact, Saturday I made one that sat in the fridge to be picked on throughout the week. I had a piece this morning in a wrap for a quick breakfast.

In true “Grandpa Pete” style, here’s the recipe as I imagined he would have told it to me.

Grandpa Pete:  Get a piece of zucchini and cut it up
ME: What size? should I peel it? How should I cut it?
GP: Eh, whatever you feel like. Do you want to learn this or not?
ME: OK, go ahead.
GP: Take the zucchini and cook it in the pan with some olive oil
ME: You mean saute’ the pieces?

Zucchini cooking in olive oil with a little bit of salt and pepper

GP: Yeah…cook it. Then take 4-5 eggs and scramble them in a bowl, get some basil from the garden and chop it up. Put that in with the eggs, then throw in some grated cheese and mix it all up.

Like every good Italian, I have an overgrown bush of basil in the backyard

ME: How much cheese?
GP: Eh, whatever you feel like. Once the zucchini is pretty cooked, stir that in with the eggs. Take your egg / zucchini mixture and pour it in to your hot frying pan. Cook it until the bottom is done.
ME: You mean until the eggs set?
GP: Yeah. Once that happens then put it under the broiler for a couple of minutes until the top cooks. Immediately slide it out of the pan on to a plate and let it cool.

NOTE: From what I remember, my grandfather never actually put it under the broiler. He had some way of flipping the frittata on to a plate halfway through and then back in to the frying pan to get the other side. I like my method better… much easier. This is what it looks like when it comes out of the broiler:

All done!

This dish is a Notafoodie family favorite during the summer. it’s simple and awesome. Do yourself a favor and make one today!

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Aug
17

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Wanna know a secret?

I love pork.

If I had to pick one animal to eat for the rest of my life, it would be of the porcine variety. Hams, salami, sausages, pork chops, roasts- all are my idea of heaven. There is one part of the pig that I find completely boring on its own. That is the tenderloin.

Pork tenderloin is one of the leanest meats available. It is as low in fat as a chicken breast.  The tenderloin is part of the loin, and you can usually find it sold vacuum packed at your local grocery store.  Because it’s so lean, it is pretty flavorless (ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT FAT IS WHERE THE FLAVOR IS!!!).

Just because a piece of meat is boring and a bit flavorless, doesn’t mean that you can’t make something awesome out of it.  The best way to achieve awesomeness with pork tenderloin is to stuff it with awesome stuff. (That last sentence is weird, but you get the idea).

To stuff tenderloin, first you have to get angry. Trim all of the sinew and silver skin off of the meat. That basically is the stuff that looks like it won’t be good to eat. Once that is all done, slice the meat halfway down the center, like you are going to cut it in half the long way.  Spread the tenderloin open and flip over. Now is when your anger comes in to play. Place a piece of wax paper over the loin and FLATTEN IT! Use a frying pan, use a meat pounder, use a meat mallet- I don’t care how you do it, just beat that meat! Flog that tenderloin! Smack that pork! Hmmm… can’t think of any other double entendres.

Once it’s good and flat, lay it out, and season it with some salt and pepper. Then get creative and come up with a stuffing. The picture below is some rainbow chard, garlic, and parmesan cheese. A little trick I learned was to make a layer of leaves from a vegetable and put the stuffing on that. It makes the rolling a lot easier.

Beaten and stuffed

Rolling? Yes, rolling. Once you have your tenderloin stuffed, roll it up and tie it with butcher string. Here is an amazing little video on how to tie roasts. It makes you look like a total professional.

Looking professional!

Once you have these bad boys rolled up, it’s time to cook ‘em. I’ve done them in the oven and on the grill. With either method, I like to sear the outside over high heat and then slowly cook them with indirect heat until the inside is at 145 degrees. Then, let sit, covered with foil for 5 minutes before slicing them up. BE CAREFUL not to overcook. Because the meat is lean, it will dry out fast if left in too long.

Awesome blurry iPhone photography skills.

This is another proof to my theory that if you add cheese to anything, it makes it awesome.

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Jun
16

Striped Bass Steaks Recipe

 

IPhone camera strikes again

Last week I took a drive out to the Notafoodie family fishing boat in Cold Spring Harbor. I was planning on just being out there for a few minutes to take care of boat registration and mooring permits- the fun things that come along with boat ownership. While I was out there I ran in to one of the kids that run the boat launch during the summer. He is a couple of years out of high school and is back home working on the dock for the summer.

“I’ve got a question for you”, he said. “Can you show me how to fillet a fish?”

I told him I could help him out and he went to go get the fish in question. When I saw the beast, I told him that he was crazy. You don’t fillet a 29lb striped bass, you cut it in to steaks.

I sent the kid out to my boat to pick up a set of knives that we kept on board, and I spent the next hour cutting that beautiful fish in to 7 or 8 steaks and two fillets from the tail section. As a reward, I took home a couple of steaks for myself.

There is nothing like eating a fish that was swimming in the water a few hours earlier. Here is how I prepared it.

  • Trimmed the red meat and belly flaps from the 2 steaks
  • Cut the skin off and cut each steak in to two pieces of meat 1 3/4” each
  • Put the scraps (bones and all) in to a stock pot with a half of lemon, the zest from the lemon, 3 cloves of garlic, an onion, some crushed red pepper, parsley, thyme, and water to cover it all
  • I brought this to a boil and then let simmer for 30 minutes

While the stock was simmering I prepped the fish. I patted them dry on all sides and covered with sea salt and fresh black pepper

I turned the oven on and preheated to 350
In a large saute pan, I put a bit of olive oil. Just enough to coat the bottom. I got the oil nice and hot, but not smoking and then did a quick sear on all sides of the steaks (around 75 seconds per side).
When all sides were nice and seared, I popped the pan in the oven for another 5 minutes to finish them off.

While the steaks were cooking, I strained the fish stock to a nice clear liquid. I put a bit in another pan where I was cooking some salt and peppered bok choy in olive oil. When the bok choy was done, I divided it in to two shallow soup bowls. I then deglazed the pan with 3 ladles full of fish stock. I put a pat of butter in to the pan and whisked it in to the stock.

My five minutes were up, so I took the fish out and placed the steaks on the bok choy and poured the stock/ butter mixture over them.

The result was a semi spicy, but delicate fish dish that I deemed worthy enough of experimenting with again.

I can’t wait to make the dish again… this time with a fish that I caught.

I'll get you, my pretty!

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Jun
07

Talking With Ben Sargent – Hook Line and Dinner

The Perfect Job

The Perfect Job

Every once in a while I get to do some pretty cool things in the name of food blogging. Friday, I got a chance to speak with the star of the Cooking Channel’s new show Hook Line and Dinner, Ben Sargent.

Ben pretty much has my dream job. Each week, he visits a new coastal locale where he teams up with the expert locals to secure the catch of the day, and then he follows that catch straight to the best seaside kitchens.

Ben is a New England guy living in Brooklyn. He’s obsessed with local fishing. I first noticed him with his attempts to bring fishing back to the borough through development of the Brooklyn Urban Anglers Association and the tournaments they hold every year.

He gained some notoriety last year with his underground lobster roll business that he set up out of his Greenpoint apartment. The experience was like buying drugs. A prospective buyer would call his cell phone to place the order and then pick up their score in his basement apartment kitchen.

Check out the interview below where we talk lobster rolls, bluefish, and of course his new show which is premiering tonight on the Cooking Chanel.

 

May
31

Wrapping Anything in Pork Makes it Better

When the weather turns hot overnight, as it seemed to do this weekend, I reminisce about my summers past and seafood. I am a huge fan of “frutti di mare”. I love taking trips to The Nautical Mile in Freeport, City Island in the Bronx, and Sheepshead Bay in Brooklyn. They sort of define summer holiday weekends to me. So, this past weekend I decided to experiment a little bit with the ol’ grill. We were having grilled sausage and peppers for dinner (another summertime favorite), but I needed a seafood fix.

Mrs. Notafoodie picked up some large shrimp from the fishmonger in Grand Central, and we were off to the proverbial races. Now, as you can probably guess from the title of this post, I could not just leave well enough alone. I needed to amp these little suckers up a bit.

Right about now, I bet you’re thinking, “simple, wrap them in bacon and throw them on the grill”. I am a fan of bacon wrapped anything, but I was craving the taste of shrimp and didn’t want it to take a backseat to the intense smokiness of bacon.

<INSERT SPARK OF GENIUS HERE>

I decided to  use another piece of the pig. I sliced a few strips of my home cured  guanciale. For those of you who haven’t read my post, guanciale is something I discovered a few months back. It’s basically pancetta, but instead of making it with pork belly (like bacon), you make it with the most delicate part of the pig, the jowl.

With that, construction began. I went out to the trust ol’ herb garden. I picked a few sage leafs. I patted dry the shrimp (so that the sage leaves would fry in pig fat instead of steaming). I laid a sage leaf on each shrimp and wrapped them in an individual pork blanket.

The handy dandy iPhone camera does it again!

The result was an appetizer that was insanely flavorful. A lesson that I learned from Chinese dumplings is that shrimp and pork go together amazingly. The sage leaf was crispy and added a perfect compliment to the porky flavor. It was more complex than just wrapping a piece of bacon around the shrimp.

As long as I have my jowl, this dish is going on my appetizer menu for summer grilling.

I’m thinking of going in to the guanciale making business. I’m taking orders. $20 per lb. Minimum order is 5lbs. Who’s in?

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